Thursday, September 09, 2010
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Buying Kit

£££ v Budget Fishfinders

Ready for some fishing but don’t have the patience to wait for the fish to come to you? Why not take a look at Garmin’s easy to use Fishfinder range which work in as little as 1ft of water and offer fast sonar refresh rates for instant information.

bm_0807_test_1877£££
Garmin Fishfinder 400c
From £249.95
The versatile Fishfinder 400C has a super bright, high resolution 10cm colour display and can be used for finding fish in both freshwater and saltwater. Available with a choice of dual beam (fish-finding to a depth of 900ft) or dual frequency transducers (fish-finding to a depth of 1,500 ft). It is also CANet-compatible so you can share sonar information with plotters located elsewhere in your boat.

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Garmin Fishfinder 90
From £69.95
Fishfinder 90 has a dual-beam transducer providing excellent shallow-water performance, and the wide viewing angle lets you see fish even off the sides of the boat. With a clear black and white display and bright backlight, the Fishfinder 90 has one of the sharpest screens for the money. It has alarms for fish size, shallow water, deep water and low battery.
 

Buying Battery Chargers

With many different categories of marine battery, it is essential to use the correct charger.

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1. Consider a programmable charger to suit different battery technologies. Other considerations for chargers are short circuit protection, damp resistance, reverse polarity protection, overload protection, charger cooling and the ability to deal with the fluctuation of input voltage. The ability to use the charger as a power pack is also a very useful feature.
2. The advantage of a battery charger that can be used as a power pack becomes evident whilst the charger is connected to mains voltage, either shore-power, or, generator. The charger has the ability to provide the boat’s 12-volt requirements whilst also charging the boat’s battery bank. This means saving the onboard battery supply from cycling, which may help provide an extended battery life.
3. A correct charge for open lead acid, maintenance free, AGM or gel batteries can be produced by a programmable charger, this in turn, will assist battery longevity. Another important point to peruse is the output of the charger. A small 10amp charger will be suitable for the boat with a single battery, but a boat with a battery bank of, say, four 100amp batteries will require a charger that is able to produce enough battery input to charge the bank within a reasonable time.

   

Buying Engine Oil

Oil, the engine’s lifeblood, has to be of a suitable specification for your engine.

1. Viscosity, or in English, how thick or thin it gets when cold or hot. Using too low a viscosity can cause the oil to lose strength at higher temperatures. Your engine needs oil protection at all temperatures; this is why correct viscosity is essential. Multigrade oil goes a long way to help.

2. API Rating (American Petroleum Institute) or ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d’Automobiles) are the stamps of the relevant testing bodies. This information is on every can of oil you buy. Requirements will be stated in your engine’s manual.

3. Synthetic or mineral? Mineral oil comes straight out of the ground and is then refined. Synthetic oils are more expensive, but more stable at all temperatures, providing superior performance. Semi-synthetic is a mix of mineral and synthetic and offers a balance between the two.

4. Two-Stroke - Stick rigidly to the engine manufacturer’s advice when using these oils. Standards for two-stroke oil are TCW3 and NWMA. These specifications ensure fluidity, lubrication and viscosity, as well as, a high quality product.

All oil has a limited lifespan and, at the very least, needs to be changed in accordance with manufacturer recommendations. Ensure that any oil you use meets the engine requirements as a minimum.

   

New Year, New Gear

Colin Jones reflects on the gear that earned its position on his boat last year, and why they’re going to stay.

At the moment, long lasting value for money is talked about more than at any time since the last financial depression. We got over that one, so the near future might not be as black as reporters like to paint it. In the media, good news is no news.

For serious skippers, mid-winter is an interesting time of year. Many of us will have been to a couple of boat shows and spent evenings browsing through catalogues and magazines, plus charging around the Internet, so we have a good idea about what next season’s budget will buy.

Equally, we have also had time to reflect on the boat’s current equipment and can now decide what we shall retain on board, and what will be consigned to that great trash can in the sky.

OPTIMA BATTERIES

bm_0812_test_2246The Optima spiral technology batteries were installed in 2007 and were one of our best purchases. At the time they were expensive, but it was money well spent because they have performed brilliantly. Batteries are really the boat’s ‘heart’. Elsewhere in this issue we talk to the increasing number of skippers taking advantage of very accurate and very reliable GPS to go further offshore. If there is a sensation worse than being out of sight of land, worrying that the electrics and electronics might fail, I prefer not to know about it.

Yet, how many of us are conscientious about battery care?

The dissuader is that they are usually in dark places, where you are very cramped and tools are difficult to use. Once, deep down in Abemama’s wet locker, I managed to get a spanner across a 100Ah wet battery. It imploded with enough noise to deaden my hearing for an hour and sprayed acid everywhere.

Read more ...

   

Lifejacket Q&A

All the agencies concerned with maritime safety (RNLI, MCA and RYA) are actively promoting the wearing of lifejackets when on or around water with the now familiar ‘Useless Unless Worn’ campaign. “A lifejacket buys you vital time, but only if you are wearing it,” they say, but how do you choose the right one in the first place? Angela Clay has been answering your questions.bm_0902_test_2395_2

Q.            What is the difference between a lifejacket and a buoyancy aid? Caroline Hughes

A.         Both are officially known as Personal Protection Equipment or PPE. Buoyancy aids are often of the waistcoat type, lightweight with buoyancy sections at the front and the back. They are suitable for watersports where you may need to swim, such as dinghy sailing, canoeing, windsurfing, inshore rowing and snorkelling. Unlike a lifejacket, a buoyancy aid will not turn the wearer into a face up position once in the water, so should be limited to use by strong swimmers in sheltered waters where help is available. Lifejackets are inflated either manually or automatically using a CO2 gas cylinder. There are four recognised levels of buoyancy, 50, 100, 150 and 275, often described in Newtons (units of force named after the great engineer) or ns.50n defines a buoyancy aid adequate for a child or adult who is a competent swimmer but where help is nearby and a PPE with100n is advised for use in sheltered waters only. A standard, adult size, general purpose lifejacket of 150n is designed for offshore cruising or motor boating and is capable of turning an unconscious person into a safe position. For maximum protection in severe conditions, or where heavy waterproof clothing could otherwise drag you under, a 275n lifejacket should be worn. If you are uncertain about which is right for your activity, seek advice from your supplier or contact one of the organisations listed at the end of this feature

Read more ...

   

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